Friday, July 1, 2011

The End for new beginnings

This trip has been a life changing experience that I was fortunate enough to share with 22 other students and 2 great teachers.  The first assignment of what I think Milan would be like, besides fashion and the culture of Italy, I sat at my computer trying to think of what to expect.  Now, after I have lived the dream of  living in the fashion capital of the world for a month and going to places that I never knew would be possible, I sit at my computer adding and adding more things that remind me of Milan.  I can't believe it is over and I hope I can come back someday, not as a student but as a person in industry for a business trip.  Here is my final thoughts of Milan and how I imagine it after I have seen it.

http://prezi.com/_87fesjrd4n3/copy-of-milan-after-the-full-experience/

The Last Supper

   da Vinci's Last Supper is one of the most famous paintings of all time because of its history and quality.  For as long as I can remember, a replica of the Last Supper has been displayed on the wall in the dinning room of my house.  I always knew that it was the 12 apostles that are in this painting having the last supper with Jesus, the story behind it, and that it was painted by Leonardo da Vinci.  Considering that the original painting is on a wall of the dinning hall in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, we had the chance to visit it today, the day of our last supper as a group. 
Before going into this dinning hall, I was amazed, but not that surprised of how protective they are of this painting.  There is only a certain amount of people allowed in at once, where you must wait in a closed chambered room until it is okay to go in.  When I first entered, it was to my surprise that it was a mural on the wall, and not a canvas painting that I expected.   
    Leonardo spent three years painting the The Last Super.  For this period of time, daVinci searched the streets of Milan for models of Christ and Judas.   Although it was common to paint directly onto the walls of building, Leonardo was not trained in the 'fresco' technique, that was typically used by artists during this time.   Instead, daVinci used a dry paint called tempera forte technique, which was a special type of paint that allowed the artist to correct or change on any part of the painting.  Hundreds of years later it is amazing to see that it is viewable, never mind the excellent condition it was restored to.
  In this industry whether design, promotion, buying, public relation etc, it is important to have your own technique in order to be unique.  For me, my passion to be in the fashion industry focuses on the visual segment of fashion promotion, which requires a technique  of knowing how to catch the attention of a shopper and make any merchandise appeal to all.  Clearly daVinci knows how to catch an audiences attention though his art, and for everything that I have learned and grown from on this trip, I know that like daVinci, I will create a beautiful portrait of my life, from being a part of this Milan experience.   
BBC. Science and Nature. "The Last Supper"
     http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/leonardo/gallery/lastsupper.shtml

Thursday, June 30, 2011

The other side of the Industry: A visit to In

High school was when I took my first fashion class at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.  We learned about the In’s and outs of fashion merchandising.  While I was there, I would see displays of incredibly unique and innovative ideas by the design students who were given themed assignments to design,  and were displayed in the main entrance of the school.  Since I was there for the month of May, around graduation time, I was able to see a fashion show that our professor had recorded from graduation, and for the first time see a collection of these talented students. 
         Today we visited the Instituto Secoli, a fashion school in Milan that has been in existence since 1934.  The Instituto Secoli is primarily for design and very similar to F.I.T.   On our visit here  we met the president of the school, Stefano Secoli, viewed the  collections of the students that just graduated, and had a tour of the school.  
Stefano Secoli
       In fashion, there are two categories that a garment is distinguished in, Altelier and  prêt-a-porter.  Stefano Secoli talked to us about the process of creating prêt-a-porter (ready to wear), explaining that it is the want to produce something unique.  However, prêt-a-porter is what is considered the industry side of fashion, where it is mass marketed, and is not made to measure.  Haute Couture, which is referred to as Atelier is made to measure, and is the second part of this industry.  Secoli explained that when something is Haute Couture it is “handmade and made to measure”.  Being a fashion student for the business side of this industry, my expertise are not focused on design and the production side of fashion.  
      I know the steps and process of making a garment, and putting together a fashion show, but unlike the students at these two design schools that I admire so much, I have not experienced it first hand.  On our tour of the school after watching the fashion show, I saw the difference between classes and the atmosphere of a classroom for a fashion deign student, in comparison to the business of fashion classes that I am use to.
A fashion show begins from an idea or inspiration (which is the collection),  design, product development, patents, samples (which are created for the fashion show), orders (from the buyers), and the production (of the orders).
     Fashion today can easily be recreated and that garment can instantly lose its uniqueness.  “A key point of a fashion show is to make it impossible to copy”, says Stefano Secoli.   This industry is so broad, that you can learn something new about it almost everyday.  Although one may have the title of a fashion major, their studies can be very different, i.e the design students at colleges such as the Instituto Secoli, F.I.T, Parons or L.I.M, may see the more creative side of fashion, compared to a Johnson and Wales fashion student, who understands the business perspective of the fashion industry.  This was a great visit to see the difference in a design student’s education, especially in Milan, the fashion capital of the world.   But one thing that all fashion students have a common ground in, is the ability to know what to look for in fashion; quality, uniqueness, fit and design detail.

Reuniting with White Sposa

          Last week during fashion week we were all introduced to Simona Polli, the editor of White Sposa magazine.  Our first time meeting her, she introduced us to the designers of the wedding gowns that will be in the September issue of White Sposa, which we were all fortunate enough to preview before the magazine is released.  Considering there were wedding gowns everywhere, our emotions were occupied on the “fairy tale” atmosphere.  Today, the atmosphere was a little different when we visited the office of White Sposa, where we were introduced to everyone that is part of the publishing house, and got to understand the process in creating a magazine from start ton finish. 
Elena Todros  shooting for an Editorial
    Simona Polli, the editor of White Sposa graciously welcomed us and introduced us to Elena Todos, the fashion editor who manages the working team, and assesses strategies and methods to perfect the editorials in the magazine. 
   Before we got to talk with Elena and Simona about their involvement in the magazine, we were able to see each different area of the office.  Rita Vossi, who is the originator of White Sposa and is the editor in chief, was fortunately in her office while we were there, and we were lucky enough to meet her.  Rita Vossi is also Simona Polli’s mother.  Her idea in creating this wedding magazine was simply because Italy had no magazines for a bride, so she started her own.
       There are 10 roles and skills that are part of the publishing house that make this magazine successful, which include the publisher, editor, art director, graphic design, editorial staff, journalist, fashion editor, print production, accounting office and sales.  The philosophy at White Sposa magazine is all about Team Work.  As a team, each of the offices that present the roles and skills above, work together to produce an excellent issue, that takes 1 month to create.  
    The process for the duration of this month consists of ideas, proposals, and feedback that coincide with their budget. Once these are all in order, then the production team can work to create the issue.  There are 3 issues that are created each yea, December, May and September.  
  As we have been told various times throughout this trip, to be in this industry there is no better key to success than passion. For every question that was asked, Elena explained with passion.  She not only demonstrated passion through her experience in this industry, but talking about each particular editorial, such as the photographer, the idea of the photograph, the location etc.  She had a story about each, and it truly showed that she does more than complete her job.  She gets to know the people that she works with and has  first hand experience and control of what is going in White Sposa.  She is an admirable person with her active involvement in the industry working for White Sposa, and being a milliner, and free lance writer 
       
  

           
  White Sposa magazine separates themselves from the competition, through quality, reaching to the bridal markets outside of Italy of 31 other countries, and they keep the layout of the magazine  “sophisticated and elegant” (Elena Todros) such as their editorials being strictly full pictures, eliminating collages.   The final product of this magazine reaches a select amount of news stands and popular book stores. 
    It was interesting to see how all areas of this industry work together in production of one magazine.  

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Art vs Fashion: Bob Krieger

Bob Krieger is an Italian photographer, who has been recognized worldwide, for his work in fashion and portraiture.  Krieger exudes his passion for neoclassical art, which is the classical revival in European art, architecture, and interior design, through his work. His work is exhibited at the Museo Palazzo Reale in Milan, which is where I visited today.  
Below is a painting of one of his works that was part of this exhibit, and a similar work of art through fashion.  
                           A R T                                             vs                       F A S H I O N    
Looking past the color similarities and more towards the element of texture and shape, the Triton skirt from the Sao Paulo runway for Spring/Summer 2012, and the art work of Krieger, both have a two tone color and demonstrate similar textures between the hair in the eyebrow and the feathers on the skirt.  There are faded and blurred lines of the persons skin and of gold that create a focus to the eye.  It noticed that for the skirt the same idea is captured in the lines on the white fabric.  The comparison of Krieger's art and Tritions fashion focus on the similar textures of the eyebrow and feather as well as the accents to the main attention grabbers in each works, which are the gold line and the lines around the skirt.  
Art History: Neoclassicism: (1750 - 1830)
http://wwar.com/masters/movements/neoclassicism.html

Milan Today.  "Bob Krieger, in mostra al Palazzo Reale".
http://www.milanotoday.it/eventi/mostre/mostra-bob-krieger-palazzo-reale-milano.html

"Photography in Milan with the Hotel St. George and Bob Krieger

http://www.hotelstgeorge-milan.com/2011/06/photography-in-milan-with-the-hotel-st-george-and-bob-krieger/

Cultural Adventure: Mission Accomplished

 For our last cultural mission, we were sent to find four different stores. These stores were not on the main streets and instead were down the side streets in little holes. 


1.) The first store Angela Caputi Giuggiu had hand made jewelry from Florence. The store also had  
handbags and hats all made of natural materials. The jewelry was big and chunky with bright colors.



                                                                                       2.) The second store was Venini; here we found hand made glass furnishings that were all made in Veroni. Even with the stores long history and tradition, the pieces were all very unique and modern. The   colors were bright and shined with the artistic and innovative designs.






                           

3.) The third store was the Lisa Corti textile store. The store had fabrics that were hand crafted in India and then designed and turned into clothing, bedding, bags, and accessories in Italy. In the back of the store there was a design studio and sewing machines. The store was very bright with all of the different patterns and the hand-painted floors were just as unique as the merchandise.

























4.) The last store was Bellora, a bed and bath store. The color theme was pastels and the key furniture  
pieces were painted white. All of the products are made from an Italian company, however the classic pieces are produced in Turkey. The main material being used throughout the store was wood and cotton.


    As a group we discussed why we would be sent to these very different stores. We saw a couple major themes as we moved from each store. The colors were captivating and the quality was always top notch. The atmosphere of each store was fun and inviting while also having a homey feel. Although not all of the products were made in Italy, the stores still had the complete pride in their handcrafted pieces that Italian merchants have always had.

        As we enter the industry, these stores reminded us of the two main factors that impact the fashion industry. Quality and uniqueness are what helps products stand out against the standard designer labels. As we have learned in classes, this industry is very competitive. These stores all have specialized products and in order to be as successful they have to be different in the experience that they give their customer along with the product. This allows the stores to be distinct in their categories within the industry. From this we can take the same mentality and make ourselves stand out against our competition as we grow in our chosen fields.

      If any of these stores were to come to the United States, they would be successful. They offer the customer quality and style that Americans are looking for. As some of these stores are small, they would present their customers exclusivity within the American market. We are glad we got to see these four hole in the wall stores and grow from the experience.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Art vs Fashion: Museum of "Contemporary" Art

                                        
                             
       
    Achille Fontanelli (Modena 1775 - Milan 1838)                                                              Alexander McQueen
             Italian Nationalist                                                                                                               Cruise/ Resort 2012

Silhouette and embroidery are the two focal points of comparison between the painting of Achille Fontanelli, by artist Andrea Appiani, and the garment from the 2012 Cruise/ Resort collection by designer Alexander McQueen.  Looking at these creations side by side, I first noticed the shape of the collar, the curve and cut of the fabric and  and the emphasis to the waist line.  It is obvious that the Alexander McQueen design emphasizes the body of the model more than the painting, considering it is a modernized creation.  Achille Fontanellis 18th century garment in the painting is more layered and seems it is a heavy fabric, which was common during that period, signifying wealth and status.  


There is detail along the collar of the Andrea Appiani painting, that continues along the trim of the cape.  The embroidered detail is threading of an almost leaf like motif.  The motif in the garment is very similar to the embroidery of bronze thread and gemstones that is on the shoulder and skirt part of the back of this McQueen gown.  


Browsing through images of current women's couture fashion from 2012, to 18th century fashion of a man, demonstrates that fashion is repetitive in all elements, but to make a contrast for uniqueness is knowing how to modernize the garment and make it fit to the body, like the Alexander McQueen design is above.   


Last year in my Apparel Quality analysis, we constructed a garment from the Marie Antoinette period, using patterns from a silhouette of that style, but our own fabric and design.  It was not an easy task to create a corset and correctly fit it to the body.  During the Marie Antoinette period, there were layers under the garment that we are not use to wearing in modern fashion, such as the layers of fabric that Fontanelli wears in the painting above.  Having the experience of creating a garment of an unfamiliar shape and adding our own design allowed me to be creative and understand the relation of art vs fashion and how designers interpret art in a modernized fashion.